Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Mangiare Mangiare

It seems like a lifetime ago since my last blog, so much as happened, we have been to and experienced some amazing places and had a good few laughs along the way.  Travelling in and around the Amalfi was a nightmare for us, it seemed every time we wanted to go somewhere we were a minute or so late for a bus and would spend an hour or more waiting for the next one, or walking the journey, we don't like walking that much!

The final bus ride from Amalfi to Salerno was pretty uneventful, other than the air-con did not work, and I had Jo sit on the right hand side of the bus, so as we could take in the view, we sat in the sun for most of the hour and ten minute journey.

Our last night at Praiano we ventured into Positano for a prearranged meeting with a shuttle bus, we were to meet at Eden Roc Hotel.  Having exited the big Bull Shitta at Sponda, we walked down into Positano, it was hot, bloody hot.  We reached the bottom of the hill without finding our rendezvous point, asked a taxi driver for directions, we were pointed back to the top of the hill, WOW more walking.

We finally found our meet point, then sat there in the heat for an hour, as I had stuffed up the time, the shuttle arrived on time and took us another 300 or so meters above Positano to the La Tagliata restaurant, once there we were ushered down some stairs into the restaurant, which was packed, we were then led down more stairs to a lower landing and WOW what a view, it was unbelievable.

Our waiter, Vincenzo came with water and wine, and then explained there were no menu's, we were just to sit enjoy the view and the wine, and the food would come.  The food came and came and came, it was to be a marathon, I was chocko blocko after the first round of Anti-Pasta, 6 plates in all, each one with 3 to 4 different anti-pasta and the food was to die for, actually thought I had been run over by a Bull Shitta and gone to heaven.

Thankfully we were given a good 20 minute break before a huge plate containing four different types of pasta dishes came to the table, along with yet another loaf of bread, mangiare mangiare was the cry of Vincenzo, the pasta was awesome, but so hard to get through there was so much food.

Around this time I started to enquire as to when the shuttle would take us back down the hill, had 20 minutes to ponder these things when Vincenzo returned, this time with a huge smile as he explained the various grilled meats he had brought to our table, Jo and I looked at each other thinking is this guy joking or what?  No, no he was for real, beef steaks, lamb chops, pork chops, rabbit, chicken, venison, two different sausages, things we had never before seen, nor tasted, my God how will we ever survive this?

We ate meat and more meat until we could no more, Vincenzo was becoming disappointed with us, we had left too much on the plate, I had meat sticking out my ears and this guys is upset about it, go away let me be, I want to sleep, someone stab me!

We sat patiently waiting for our White Knight, the shuttle bus driver, enjoying the awesome view and enjoying the last of the wine, it won't too long now and we'll be tucked up in bed, oh hang on there is Vincenzo again and he is heading our way, laden with desserts, profiterole's smothered in chocolate mousse, a fruit tart and a torte of some sort and chocolates, more chocolates, but wait he is coming back again, now we have limoncello to help digest all this food, what only a shot glass full, come on bring the jug!

Vincenzo was to return to our table one more time, thankfully this time all he brought was the bill and advice that the shuttle was waiting at the top of the three flights of stairs, you have never seen me pay a bill so fast in my life, I had never seen Jo climb stairs so fast, this Italian ordeal was all but over.
Wrong, very wrong, we had to take the Bull Shitta back to Praiano, we were to catch the last one for the night at 10:55, which would see us tucked up in bed no later than 11:30, thankfully as we had an early start next morning.

The shuttle bus dropped us off last, after dropping all the other guests to their hotels right through Positano, and as luck would have it, five minutes after the last Bull Shitta had departed the Sponda Fermata, we were in for an hour wait for the local Positano to Praiano shuttle, we got to bed at 1:00AM and still had to pack our bags, shattered.













Giardini Naxos, Taormina, Sicily, Italy .... last night

I am quite a ways behind with the updates as we had no internet for 4 days and the Wi-Fi here is crappola, so will post this and work backwards when I can, having lots of fun and adventure, has worn us out a bit so we have booked a holiday on the same cruise ship we honeymooned on 'Legend of the Seas', we depart July 7 from Genoa, enjoy ....

Giardini Naxos, Taormina, Sicily, Italy .... last night

I cooked Jo dinner tonight in our Sicilian apartment over looking the bay of Taormina, it has been a very hot day, but now it is late evening, the sun has gone down and there is a beautiful breeze flowing through the open windows in the dining room.  The room is at the West end of a large property, it is the highest room along the Taormina foreshore, with 270 degree views from just this room, it is also the kitchen and laundry area and has the feel of a beach shack.


As I sit and write this, we are enjoying a beer after dinner, there is a restaurant below us on the ground floor, a guy is singing "The Sounds of Silence" while strumming his guitar, the lights of the village and the boats are glittering, in the distance are Italians voices still enjoying the beach and a dog barking, it feels like your watching a movie, it is awesome.

The beach front is littered with around 700 beach brollies, it is a sandy beach this end of town, pebbles up the over end, the bay is over shadowed by mountains to the North, which of course have houses and villas built along and over the cliffs, it is a beautiful place.  The people here are very laid back and many speak fluent english, it seems many more than we have experienced elsewhere.
One of the other things I am really loving here, the ground out the front and a long the coast for about three kilometers is dead flat, there are no stairs, except to our apartment, which is on the sixth floor, there are two lifts up to the fifth floor, I can live with that.



We have stayed at so many beautiful places through our trip, on the Seine river in Paris, on the Amalfi Coast with views to Positano, a few days ago at Scilla in Calabria, in a beautiful little fishing village, but this place has trumped them all, I would not come back to Italy without first booking some time here in Taormina, I'd double our time if we were to have this apartment again, it is stunning, simply stunning.


Thursday, June 20, 2013

You're kidding me, right?

Yesterday our trip to Sorrento was brought about by the need to find a bank, it is an hour and five minutes on the bus to Sorrento, we then spent an hour and a half walking the streets in 30 degree heat looking for the bank, thankfully we found it, had lunch and a walk to the pier, before the hour and five minute bus ride back to Praiano.

Went down the street this morning to buy bus tickets, the shop was closed so had to walk a further 50 meters beyond where I had walked before, on the walk back to the hotel I found an ATM for the same bank we went looking for in Sorrento, moral of the story check what is in your own backyard before looking over the fence!

Took a bus into Positano today, to see what all the fuss is about, found a lot to make a fuss about, bloody beautiful place. Was stinking hot though and the place was full of stairs, get down one lot just so you can go up another, reckon the joint was designed by a sadist.  We thoroughly enjoyed our visit though, had lunch at a cafe with a view to the beach and about the only place which seemed to have a gentle breeze constantly easing its way up the hill, we took our time over lunch, it was so very nice.  Jo doesn't handle the heat too well, seems to get very grumpy and snappy with me, bloody funny actually, loving Amalfi Coast.


















waiting for the bus

view from Praiano

here comes a bride

Have booked this table for dinner tonight.

Wednesday, June 19, 2013

From Florence to Amalfi with a little diversion to Pisa

I seem to be giving Jo her own way a lot lately, so on our last day in Florence we took the train to Pisa Central, so as she could see the famous leaning tower of Pisa.  It is an easy one hour ride and a 30 minute walk to get there, and I must admit I was happy to have done so in the end, not for having seen the Torre so much, but more so for experiencing the town itself.  The town was quite quiet in most parts, wide streets and big open plaza's at the end of them, we also saw some kayak racing on the river that runs through town, including a cock-less pairs race, something totally unexpected.  Around the main attraction there where the expected terrorists everywhere, standing awkwardly posing for photo's trying to look like they were holding up the tower, reckon the contractor that ripped the council off by not putting concrete in the foundations is still pissing himself at them all!

Our travel day from Florence to Amalfi, began with another train ride, this time a high speed train with a private company, we have been impressed with all the trains to date and the precise schedules they keep, this train however was truly impressive, travelling at 300 kmh and surfing the net was an awesome experience.

The fun stopped once we got to Salerno though, being a Sunday most of the place was closed and the bus drivers are total wankers, arrogant, rude and of as little help as you can imagine.  After rooting around for 30 or 40 minutes we dragged our cases over a kilometer to a port, where we managed to buy tickets for the ferry ride, a much better option.  What we experienced at Salerno, we got to enjoy again with the Amalfi bus drivers, so much so I have decided to rename the company from Sita Bus Company to Bull Shitta Bus Company, absolute arseholes the lot of them!

Our opinion of the Bull Shitta Bus Company was even less at 7:30AM the following morning, when the bus arrived and departed 6 minutes early, despite the fact I was running down the road after it, almost had it at the next stop before it roared off in front of me again, NOT HAPPY JAN!

And so began our three hour walk along the Amalfi coastline from Praiano to Amalfi, a distance of no less than 12 kilometers, an arsehole driving a Bull Shita Bus past us 4 kilometers before Amalfi, even though I hailed it down, he just waved to say sorry as it was full, like I gave shit by this stage.

We arrived at 10:30AM, we were supposed to be at at Amalfi he Mamma Agata Cooking School in Ravello by 10:30, and as we had so little confidence in the Bull Shitta Bus Company by now, we took a taxi the 8 kilometers up and over a bloody big hill to the school, we were so hot and bothered by the time we arrived, we hardly noticed the arsehole bus driver that was driving the taxi on his day off, rip us of to the tune of around 60 Euro's, so you thought we had a low opinion of the bus drivers, ask us sometime what think of the taxi drivers!

The day at Mamma Agata's though was very good (another instance of my giving Jo her way!!), we had breakfast, lunch and dinner with some very nice people, a group of four Aussies from Bendigo, though two of them live in New York, a Family of four from Michigan and a gay couple from St Louis, not to mention Mamma, her daughter and son in law Chiara, Genarro and their children Mario and Flora.  I will write about this day in my Dinner with Jack blog later.

So this morning we woke late, had a very nice big breakfast, croissants, toast, fruit, yoghurt, coffee and which also included a scrambled egg and half a rasher of bacon served on a saucer, different, but very yummy too. After brekky, Jo was expecting to lay around reading a book etc.  I need to get to  bank after being fleeced yesterday, so said I was off to Sorrento on a Bloody Bull Shitta Bus, she looked horrified, but decided to join me anyway and we had a great day out in Sorrento, did a lot more walking than either of us expected, but the place was worth seeing and one I'd very much like to return to one day, might have to hire a car though!

Firenze graffiti











Cock-less pair




View from Praiano at sunset

Positano by night from our Praiano hotel room

Praiano early morning walk


some rather dodgy road to walk along



Big lemons here, bus drivers eat them for breakfast as all arseholes should


Villa Carmella


View to Amalfi




finally at cooking school

breakfast on the terrace


View of Sorrento coast looking across to Ischia



nice shoes

love the veggie shops here


new sunnies



not a bull shitta bus